backlit projector screen This is a topic that many people are looking for. bluevelvetrestaurant.com is a channel providing useful information about learning, life, digital marketing and online courses …. it will help you have an overview and solid multi-faceted knowledge . Today, bluevelvetrestaurant.com would like to introduce to you DIY How to Build LED Backlit Projector Screen with Carl s Place FlexiGray. Following along are instructions in the video below:
“Guys welcome to life of bliss today. I ll be talking about building your own own projector. Screen building your own screen is a great way to save money and a much better image from your projector. Than projecting.
The other on a wall or a bedsheet or anything. Like that it s about a one day project and this cost me roughly a hundred and fifty dollars with the materials that i used another great advantage is you re able to make this as big as you want and in whatever aspect. Ratio that you want that s going to work best for your room and with all that saved money you can i don t know start a college fund for your kid or put on some backlight leds. Yeah sorry son so behind me is the 120 inch screen that i built from the flexi gray material from carl s place carl s place is an online retailer that sells many different materials to help you build a diy screen.
If you haven t seen. My video that compares three different materials from carl s place and different lighting environments be sure to check that out that is a very helpful tool to help you decide. Which material is going to look best in your situation. But this video is more about the build process.
So let s get started first we ll start with the screen a 120 inch 16. By 9 aspect ratio screen is what will work best in my setting the math is pretty straightforward. But to be absolutely sure the measurements are correct there are many screen size calculators out there this one i m using is from projector screens comm since an exact 120 inch diagonal screen wasn t the prettiest numbers. I went slightly smaller to get my dimensions.
This particular calculator lets you choose other aspect ratios. As well and is a quick reference to make sure your numbers are accurate now if you want a borderless screen. These are the numbers you ll need and you re ready to go if you plan on adding. A black border with felt tape like i ll be doing later.
You ll need to add the thickness of the border to each side. You do not want to add this number to the aspect ratio dimensions. As your ratio will be off for example. My roughly 120 inch screen is 104 inches.
Wide i will be adding a. 125 inch border on each. Side so i need to add. 25 inches total to my width.
Giving. Me 100 and. 65. Inches the same with the.
Height. Adding 25. Inches to get my final height of 61 inches. Now that s other way on to actually building the frame for the wood.
I went with one by four poplar boards the top and bottom were cut to the exact width..
And the sides and center support were all cut seven inches short of my total height to account for the top and bottom boards using a kreg jig. I put two holes in both ends of the shorter boards and started assembly in the frame. It s important to make sure that the boards are flush during this process. So the outline of the board doesn t show through your screen.
This is the first time i ve used a craig pocket hole clamp. But for this it worked really well and kept everything flush to make sure there are no rough edges. It s not a bad idea to flip the frame over and go over the scenes with the sander to attach the frame. I ll be using a french cleat.
I already had one half of the cleat already on the wall from my test scream video. So i just need to cut one other board at a 45 degree angle to attach to the screen once attached it will sit against the wall and be held up by the bottom board like this since it will need to be flush against the wall. I pre drilled my holes and used a larger bit to countersink the screw heads with the frame downstairs. I took a few measurements to make sure the screen would be the correct height and attach the cleat take your time and be sure.
This is as even as possible because this will determine how level your screen sits on the wall alright guys so real quick. I wanted to bring out the test screen that i made here recently you can see the cleat is up top. There and then to space it out the same on the bottom. I just put a few spacers.
There that s just to give it the same space from the wall. As it is up top now on the screen that i m making over here. I m not going to be doing that just because for the led lights. There s going to be a perimeter.
All the way around on the backside of three quarter inch wood. That s going to act like the space or like those days. So i won t need to do that one thing. I did want to point out.
If your wall is not completely flat or if you have a little bit of warping in your wood. Once that spaced out that is an inch or excuse. Me that s 3 4. Of an inch and then we ll come over here to this side.
And it s pulled out from the wall a little bit more. It s about an inch and a quarter. So essentially what i m going to do to fix that is just make another cleat like i did there in the center and just throw it down here. In this lower quadrant just to pull it closer to the wall.
So to do this i attach the cleat first to the frame. Then came back and attached the lower part to the wall. This wasn t sure that the height isn t alternate on that side. And only pulls the frame closer to the wall and now for the fun part attaching the screen like i said in my previous video.
I chose to go with the flexi gray material from carl s place man that was a weak attempt to unroll..
I highly suggest paying the extra for shipping. The screen on a roll instead of folded to prevent any major creases in the screen to get started make sure the gray side. You ll project the image on is facedown and the black backing is facing up center. The frame on the screen with at least four inches of material.
Overlapping each side you can cut away any major excess pieces. Just so they won t get in the way later next using a staple gun. I stretch the screen over the frame and started attaching it from the back the best way to do this is to start in the middle of each side and place four or five staples to hold it in place just like a canvas. You want to work your way from the center out towards the corners.
I repeated this process several times. Only stapling down six to twelve inches at a time. I found that as i pulled the material over the edge of the frame. It helped reduce any minor waves in the screen by also pulling towards the corners.
As well almost at a diagonal angle. I secured each side up about six inches away from the corners. And was able to fold the material over itself to get it nice and tight once everything is here take some scissors or a sharp razor blade. And cut off the excess material.
Be extremely careful not to slip off the frame and cut into the face of your brand new screen that would be a costly mistake also here s a close up of how i did one of the corners finally stand it up throw it on the wall. And admire that beautiful rectangle that you just made so at this point these green building process is actually done if you were looking to have just an edge less screen like this and not doing the leds or a black border. This is ready to hang up and go now that i ve gotten this up on the wall. There s no creases everything looks good.
I m going to go ahead and take it down put the led strips around the backside and then we ll install the black felt tape for the black border all right so let s switch gears and start talking leds first we ll go back to the table saw where i cut some small strips at a 3 4. Inch thick material to go along the outside edge. This long. One here will be nice for the top edge.
And we ll ship it no problem. We ll use that one for the side. And this one here will be the tough son of a sorry about that once all the pieces were cut. I attach them on the backside of the screen along my staple line with a brad nailer.
Be sure the nails that used are not long enough to go through both boards and the front of your screen. I didn t make a sharp corner on the edges. So the led strip didn t make a sharp curve and create gaps and the backlight so for the leds going around the backside of the screen. I chose to go with the same products.
I ve used for my bar area. I ve used these for about a year now and it had really good luck with them it s from a company called my light or me light. However you want to pronounce it. But essentially.
It s just a controller box that all the led lights run through and then you can have a wireless remote to either change color or turn them on them off adjust..
The brightness levels. Things like that so like i said. This has been a really good product for me so i m going to continue to use it behind the screen. There and be able to control it off of all the same controller all the products here that you see i ll leave links in the description down below.
But essentially for the lights. You ll just need a power source. A controller and a control box a couple of led strips. These are about 16 foot apiece.
I needed two of those to get around the 120 inch screen. One of them wouldn t do it so this is a waterproof or anything. It s just regular led strip with some sticky backing back here it does not stick to wood that well so we re gonna glue it down some hot glue as we and then also you ll need some five wire extension wire. Which i did not realize.
I was out of so i will have to order some more and get the rest of this done another day. But let s go ahead and get started and getting these leds around the back of the screen. So here s just a quick shot of all the components necessary for the led lighting. Again.
I ll leave all the links to these products down below to make it easy for you guys to find to start out it s a good idea to map out where you re going to place the leds including where the ends will intersect technically these strips have quick disconnect ends that allow you to add more strips so no soldering is required in my case. I didn t think the ends would line up in a convenient place for that to happen and not make it noticeable with some sort of gap in the lighting. So i chose to solder the ends to a common input and have the strip s meet in the opposite corner. Which you ll see in a moment.
I go into great detail on how to solder these strips together with different connectors in my bar lighting video. Which i ll link below. But i m just going to quickly go over things here. I cut the ends off of each strip and soldered those to a few feet of extension wire with a quick disconnect soldered to that end to make one input for both strips.
This will allow the screen to easily be removed and disconnected. If need be the new extension wire that i got ended up having quick disconnects on it already so this is the only soldering that needed to be done after soldering. It s always a good idea to test the lighting to make sure that all of the colors still work. I hid.
The wires inside the frame and started routing. The leds around the mounting strips peeling back the paper to expose the sticky. Backing. A dab of hot glue was applied every six to eight inches to ensure the strip s would not fall off down the road.
I worked my way around to the opposite corner. Where the two strips with meet to prevent any gaps and lights. I looped each strip a bit and tuck the excess inside the frame. Although the black backing should prevent any light from coming through the screen.
I overlapped the strips and glued them together to reduce any excess light behind the screen..
Alright boys were in the homestretch last major step is adding the felt tape border from karl s place. I wanted a very thin border. So i went with the 2 inch white tape. I also wanted the ends to be covered so that is how i calculated my border earlier being 125 inches.
Since 3 4. Of an inch would be used up on the ends. The corners were done by cutting out a three quarter inch notch and folding the top and bottom over this tape was super easy to apply i just lined up and stuck the tape along the back edge. Then rolled the remainder over the front one thing to note.
Is this tape does not stretch like the screen material. So you ll need to be precise with your cuts like i mentioned earlier the extension wire. I got already had quick disconnect plugs so no more soldering was needed no one likes seeing wires. So i routed them through the wall to where the rest of my av equipment is located connecting the led controller box is pretty self explanatory.
But here s a quick pic of how the wires are connected after my wife and i awkwardly took too long to find the correct mounting point. It was finally time to fire. It up well. That s not good after a brief griswold moment.
All right let s try this again. Oh yeah all right calm down. It s not that impressive. But they do look pretty cool so as i mentioned earlier the bar area my basement is outfitted with the leds and controllers from my light.
As well each remote can control up to four zones and these have been working flawless for me over the past year each zone can be controlled separately or they can be all synced to do the same colors or functions. At the same time as far as the screen goes after doing some initial calibration with my projector. The image looks better than it ever has the flexi gray material. Really does a great job and lower ambient light settings and the blacks look incredible with the room completely dark colors are still fairly vibrant and the image is very bright even with my panasonic projector on eco mode.
I honestly couldn t be happier with how easy it was to get such a great image for the cost of the materials. And while the led lights are a cool feature. I got to be honest. If i m watching a serious full length movie they re usually off so they don t become a distraction.
But i do still think they are a great addition to the room. So there are links for all the products that i use down in the description below just by clicking on those links you guys do help to build the channel. So i do appreciate all of your support thanks to carl s place for sending out the materials to build this awesome diy screen. Hope the video helped you guys hit that like button if so subscribe for more home theater and diy.
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