Nintendo Switch LCD Replacement

nintendo switch lcd replacement This is a topic that many people are looking for. bluevelvetrestaurant.com is a channel providing useful information about learning, life, digital marketing and online courses …. it will help you have an overview and solid multi-faceted knowledge . Today, bluevelvetrestaurant.com would like to introduce to you Nintendo Switch LCD Replacement. Following along are instructions in the video below:

“Right so on the desk. We have a nintendo switch that was brought in for for a broken lcd screen so we need to replace that lcd. Unfortunately i m able to turn the console off because i can t really see where that button is and i can t for the life of me remember off the top of my head. Where it is so let s go ahead and just tear.

This thing down because. The battery is almost dead as it is first things first we ll remove the joy cons from either side. We ll start working on that back plate. I m gonna remove the two middle screws on the sides here those two middle screws are going to be part of the back panel that holds it in you don t need to remove any other screws than those middle ones right there one from each side next thing.

We re gonna do is take out these two from the very bottom here two more phillips heads pretty soon. We re gonna be switching over to the tri wing driver. Because the antenna switch does have a few tri wings. In there a lot of people think that apple was the one who kind of pioneered the trialing design.

When in fact it as far as i m aware was in nintendo actually nintendo has been using the tri wings since nintendo game boy cartridges i think game boys yeah. Yeah pretty much they ve been using it for for a good while apple. Just came out with a slightly smaller version of the trying so now. I ve got those screws out.

Do you have a little bit of an issue with that not staying attached. Okay. Let s let s come back to that we ll come back to that in a little bit. Then we ve got one more phillips head of here at the top let s drop that one out of here.

We are free spinning on that screw. Which is not a great sign when we have a screw that free spins. You want to give it a little bit of pressure for it to grab on to something so i can start spinning a little bit of tension. So i m going to add in this pry tool right here to get a little bit of pressure on that screw and you will start unscrewing it while applying that pressure this one has nothing to bite onto.

Unfortunately this one is just great stripped out. I m not able to pull on it at all so think for a minute. It s like yep tweezers brian up underneath is the way to go cool. So now we ve got to hold all the phillips heads now we re gonna move on to the gf.

4. Try wings that are on the backside this right here is a trailing screwdriver for an iphone. It does the same job. However.

It is a little bit smaller than your typical tri wing. That nintendo uses so for that i ve got another little handy dandy tool kits. This one contains tri wings well as drivers for just about anything else you might be taking apart this one i got from harbor freight tools in store and it cost me about 12. I ve used it almost everyday for about three years now and not a single bit has broken on me so i highly recommend precision screwdrivers from harbor freight.

Not a huge fan of the pittsburgh brand. But this is some weird one off clone of pittsburgh let s go ahead and remove all these screws right here. And this should release our back panel. Don t forget to take out game cartridges and sd card.

What are we playing what are we playing splatoon not bad bad. I was kind of hoping for smash brothers. But that s alright. I ll take what i can get so my back panel is held on with a clip cool back petals off got our sd card and our game card safely over there let s go ahead and start unscrewing from the inside first you re gonna want to remove that sd card reader.

It s got one screw that holds it down and then a flex connection right there under this kind of foam grommet and that foam acts as an adhesive to kind of hold it on there. So you just with a little tug don t pull too hard you don t want to break that connector or anything else on the board..


It s very important let s continue our teardown. We re just gonna go around here these are all phillips head screws and as far as i remember they are all about the same size. It s really the frame screws that have different sizes and lengths. Those you want to keep kind of organized and remember where you took them out of since you can put them back in proper places.

When you re reassembly once we ve unscrewed the six phillips head screws. We should be able to pull this off. We ll take a little look around on the board just to make sure. There s nothing going on weird on the inside.

We can see that there s no water damage on this one. So with no water damage. And no corrosion coming out of the power management area. We re looking pretty clear on this one no signs of liquid or anything else inside.

Nothing really dirty. This one s been pretty well taken care of a side from a smash. The lcd panel next i m gonna disconnect the battery usually you would want to use something that s not metal. Do this i ve done this a few hundred times.

So i m very careful and aware of where my tweezers are going. But you want to put something under there and pry up and out to release that battery connector now. We can safely start just connecting things from the board. Without any other risk.

Let s zoom out a little bit get a full view here. Then we re going to want to disconnect the lcd connector and digitizer connector so we re going to go over here we re gonna pop open this little flap style flex connector. Very carefully do not want to snap this yeah just kind of work it out you don t want to give any kind of pressure on it it s gonna cause any rips or tears got that part disconnected then we re going to continue around we re gonna unscrew. This board right here making sure that we disconnect everything from it first that s kind of important.

Let s see our board is still held in by a flex connection off to the right side here okay just connect that typically we want to take out the heat pipe for this repair. And you know i m just for ease of accessing things so i m going to go ahead and remove the heat pipe. And we re also going to be removing the fan here just a little bit. This board up here is also connected by the headphone jack.

The headphone jack is screwed in mostly because that s one of the port s that receives a lot of abuse and kids are not exactly the most gentle. So we ll take that board out here you see we didn t actually have to remove the heatsink itself. Though it definitely makes it a little bit easier to get to stuff peel that off that s just adhesive. We ve got our heat pipe thermal compound on the bottom set him aside right there then we ve got another lcd connection or possibly the digitizer on this one so we re going to disconnect that guy right there right now that we ve got it all disconnected.

It looks like that s going to be kind of a tricky one to route through the board. I m thinking that we re gonna have to take the board out to do this i really wasn t looking to do that but mmm let s let s assume let me let me check the new part. Because i haven t really even looked at the new part yet check the new part. We re gonna see which flex connection is digitizer and we re going as lcd.

I know that they both have to be disconnected because the lcd temps come out with the digitizer when you go to remove it and i don t know what i m thinking because i m gonna have to take the digitizer off entirely to even get to that flex connection. So let s assume that this guy right here is going to be our lcd connector yep. See how it would fold over and then wrap up and connect it into the board like that so what that means is we are going to have to probably take the board out here hmm. Yeah.

Let s just go for it. Let s just go for it. See what happens when we take the digi off. And yeah.

We ll be right back so i m going to remove the digitizer over here at my hot air station. We re gonna turn it down just a little bit..


We don t want it to be too hot just hot enough that we can lift this only one do it around the edges. We don t want to start melting. Anything the digitizer and the screen are made of plastic do not want to warp or bend. Any of this give it a little bit of heat and grab my fragile and my signature bottle of booze get a handle under here just a little bit we re just gonna add our booze right down those cracks.

Once our booze has started to work its way in we can work our way around a little bit gently crying as we go now. If you catch on a spot. That s a little bit a a little bit more glued down than the rest of it should be you can always add just a little bit more booze. And that booze is going to keep that adhesive.

Nice and soft soft enough for you to start getting it out from the part that s stuck yeah admittedly this does not sound great. When you re opening. It the sound that the adhesive makes is you separate it does not sound great. But do not worry.

It is again plastic. It s not exactly going to crack on you you can definitely scratch. And i guess with enough force you could probably crack it but don t be too afraid you just work your way around take it slow add a little bit of heat. If you need it and i m not super duper careful right now because i know i m replacing the lcd.

So i don t need to worry about even cracking the lcd underneath it s already been done for me this parts holding out a little bit harder than i want it to i m going to give it a little bit more heat you can see the heat really really helps soften up that adhesive quickly and then once you allow the alcohol to soak in there. It s even more so now we ve got our digitizer. Separated just wanna make sure. It s all the way open and released excellent.

I d say this is separated enough for us to move off of our hot air station and back onto the regular workbench. So let s go do that now we re still going to keep our booze. Handy as the adhesive can start to harden up again as the alcohol evaporates and we re using 99 isopropyl alcohol. Here so that evaporates very very quickly.

I ve got just some adhesive strips holding everything on here. I m going to go ahead and pry under those so i can start to really separate this stuff. We ll be replacing the adhesive anyway so i m going to go ahead and take that all the way out make sure we can slide our lcd and digitizer connectors through the frame. Remember we want to reuse that digitizer so we re going to be extra careful on that digitizer flex connection.

Don t care so much for the lcd. One just need that out of the way now we ve got it removed from the frame. We ll set this aside for just a minute and we ll start working on separating this for this operation right here. I m gonna be using an exacto knife.

And i m going to just work my way around very gently. Very very gently that s a little more separated than i was kind of hoping. I also noticed that i ripped this flex connection that s okay that s just something else to route. When we re reassembling no biggie now again this lcd is very destroyed so i don t care about keeping it intact not exactly removing it in the nicest way possible.

But i am doing my best to keep the digitizer from having any issues. This is where our old friend boos comes in handy again. We ll add a little bit of booze on to him. And a little bit of booze on to him mmm.

Just like that our lcd is off our digitizer is still intact and we re going to be replacing this damaged lcd panel we re going to toss that off to the side and the first thing i m going to do actually is i m going to disconnect how many times somebody watching this video. If anybody is even watching this video tell me how many times. I ve said first thing. I m going to do is first thing.

I m going to do is first thing. I m going to do is let me know in the comments..


How many times. I ve said that just connect this little flex down here at the bottom. That s where our part of our digitizer is running out to or lcd. Very important very important it s the lcd connector and that s part that we re replacing.

That s why i don t care about it i m gonna flip this guy over i m gonna install the lcd panel first and then i m gonna work on putting the digitizer back in it ll be a little bit easier that s right on on me so we ve got our lcd panel. It s got two cables need to be routed through here so we got to fold. This guy. And it s going to run up through the board here this is a very very tricky way to route your cable.

Because they re resistors right. There and caps that are completely in the way of what you re trying to do so you just carefully route it through. I m going to do the exact same on this one right here carefully just going to fish it through to the other side. And i don t noticing now that it will need to be kind of folded over before getting routed through.

There. So we ve got to kind of hold it at a weird angle. Okay now we re just gonna make sure those are all through exactly the way that they need to be and we will start locking this lcd and its place it has gotten stuck on the side here. Where the digi adhesive is so i m going to gently.

Oh. So gently work my way around that to get it out got that land spot. And it is laying flat exactly how we would want it to be next. I m gonna give it a quick wipe with a microfiber cloth to get off any dust and debris that i might have on there thanks looking good and clean let s go ahead and slap that digitizer down over the top now you remember.

I said we would have to replace some adhesive and there s some that broke here along the bottom. I m gonna replace that really quick before i put on digitizer alright. We ll go ahead and route through the digitizer connection off to the side here. You know what i said.

I was putting tape on lost my train of thought didn t put the tape on where it needs to go grab. This tape right here we got to be careful that we don t cover the light sensor that s over here with tape that s gonna obscure. It and that s gonna cause our screen brightness to malfunction a little bit it still manually set it but auto brightness is the important thing here and i also went over the speaker. A little bit so i m going to cut cut some of that extra adhesive away pull that off and now we can route that dizzy all the way through lay it back down over its spot there nice and sealed let s flip it over and we ll start routing.

Some of these cables that cable connected there let s reconnect this cable here that somehow got disconnected okay. We reconnected that let s reconnect this little guy down. Here bob. We re gonna push it up from either side just to make sure.

It s all the way plugged in out. There let s go ahead and plug in our digitizer connector lock. That little thing down get that set into place and reconnect our silicon covered board flex tighten this whole guy back down and then since i opened it and broke the sink and the thermal paste on there i m gonna clean off that heatsink and thermal paste grab a little bit of iso propyl alcohol. I actually watched a huge efforts video the other day and he called it i said.

I said bottle. I said probably something and it s a very weird very weird pronunciation of the word he actually even mentioned he s like i don t think i m saying it right. But it is isopropyl alcohol kind of like propylene propylene glycol. It s another mixing thing you ll find that a lot of stuff actually even shampoo conditioner.

And some various things for your car cool. We ve got all that cleaned off let s grab. Some new thermal compound. We ll add just the right amount a little bit less than what in tendo originally.

Did because aunt endo has exploded. Everywhere and looks like thermal paste vomit line up our heat sinks on there..


We don t want to bend that soft aluminum those fins are separated so that they have good heat transmission. I can send heat where it belongs cool we got that on there let s grab our screws. We will screw up heat sink down over the processor. Another reason i wear gloves is because thermal compound is a very very messy thing.

So we ve got all that set now let s connect up our battery. And see if we are going to get a nice lcd image out of this guy. I don t really care about the other parts yet i ll do that later we do we ve got a working lcd screen excellent i m going to let it boot up and make sure that touch screen still works on their console battery. Is low touchscreen is still fully functional excellent.

Let s power. The console back off and we will continue to reassemble everything then we ll clean up the screen with all these fingerprints on it that s kind of important. Too. We want it to actually look good and look like it has been repaired about our back plate laying that over the top and then we ll start screwing.

It in and don t forget to read plug in your little. Sd card flex. He s kind of important and after you put the backplate on and you ve reassembled everything you re going to be kind of disappointed and sad. When you realize that you missed that i only say that because i ve missed it several times.

I made that mistake before we re not gonna make that mistake again we re going to plug this guy back in lining up the connections. A little tricky once you feel it snap. It in like a little lego that it is i ll even put that little spacer over the top. So a bump or a jolt will knock it loose screw that piece back in make sure i didn t miss any screws look the one missing there one there and we will i think we re ready for the back plate looks like it now i put the back plate on i like to do the side screws first because they re gonna hold everything together.

While i flip and rotate this thing all over this whole thing. These kickstands always fall out or break. I m not a huge fan of the kickstand looks like they ve had several issues in the past with it given the number of scratches on either side of this thing. They ve definitely had some issues plugging it back in before got my try wings.

We re gonna put those back on it s important not to over tighten anything in here. If you ll remember when i was opening it and had that stripped screw that just kind of free spun that can be caused from over tightening. It it s important to note that for the most part these screws are going into plastic posts and plastic posts can wear and grind down a lot easier to move faster than metal posts. Where s this non magnetic screw you have a non magnetic screw down here at the bottom.

I don t know why non magnetic screws are actually just a complete waste and engineering wise make literally no difference. They do not interact with the board. They do not cause electromagnetic interference on these boards actually not any board that was made in well since maybe the iphone 4 came out that one still had one that could be interfered with through magnets but for the most part this is the future 2019 2020 and non magnetic screws are actually just an annoyance nowadays we re gonna put our game back in pop in splatoon and might as well put the sd card back in seriously. I m not a huge fan of that that hinge they could have they really could have improved that one for releasing the console.

Good at work. So we ve got everything reconnected. And this video is approaching well over 30 minutes. That i did not expect so before we removed adhesive using boos now we re gonna clean the screen using boos plus boos plus is equal parts windex name brand windex with 99 isopropyl alcohol.

It evaporates. Very quickly it leaves no streaks and it cleans. Very efficiently grab a little microfiber cloth will wipe. It around and look at that that is a digitizer right.

There my friends as a clean digitizer with slots. And roy kahn s back in the sides. Here. And this little guy is ready to play thanks for watching guys i hope you learned something and i hope this helps you to replace lcd or whatever else you need to replace on your nintendo switch helps you learn a little bit about it and i hope you guys have a merry.

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